Large, pleated, almost a culotte skirt for those discovering it for the first time, the hakama is one of the most recognizable Japanese garments and yet one of the least understood in the West. Worn today by practitioners of Japanese martial arts around the world, it has a much older and richer history than its contemporary use might suggest. Born at the imperial court, adopted by the samurai, codified even in the number of its pleats: the hakama is a garment that literally carries a philosophy with it.
Hakama: the origins of this Japanese garment
The hakama (袴) appears in Japan as early as the Heian period (794-1185), where it is worn at the imperial court as official attire, by both men and women in different cuts. At that time, it is a prestigious garment, reserved for the nobility, which signals the social rank of the wearer by the quality of its fabric and the precision of its cut.
Its original shape is inspired by Chinese court clothing imported to Japan several centuries earlier during the great waves of continental influence. But as with many elements borrowed from China, the Japanese do not simply copy it: they gradually adapt it to their own uses and climate, until it becomes a garment that has little resemblance to its Chinese origins in its final form.
The hakama at the Japanese imperial court
At the Heian court, the hakama is part of a complex and hierarchical outfit, where each piece, color, and pattern precisely indicates the status of the wearer. High-ranking nobles wear silk hakama in colors reserved for their position, while lower-ranking officials must settle for more modest cuts and materials. This strict codification of clothing as a social marker is a constant feature of Japanese clothing history, which will later be seen in the sumptuary laws of the Edo period.
The female hakama of this period, more ample and worn over several layers of overlapping kimono, is part of the ensemble called jūnihitoe, literally "twelve layers," one of the most complex and heaviest outfits ever worn in the history of Japanese clothing.
Why did the samurai adopt the hakama?
It is from the Kamakura period (1185-1333), when the warrior class takes power in Japan, that the hakama becomes truly associated with the figure of the samurai. The aristocratic court garment gradually transforms into a functional piece suited for combat and horseback riding, two central activities in the life of a warrior of that time.
Its loose cut offers essential freedom of movement for sword techniques and unarmed martial arts, while concealing the legs in a way that masks movements and stances from an opponent's view. Worn over the kimono and secured by a system of ties knotted in a precise technique, the hakama becomes one of the distinctive clothing elements of the samurai, alongside the sword or armor.
Meaning of the hakama: the seven pleats and Bushido
What fundamentally distinguishes the hakama from simple loose pants is its symbolic weight. Unlike many traditional garments whose meaning has diluted over time, that of the hakama remains precisely codified and is still taught today in dojos around the world.
The seven pleats of the hakama and the virtues of the samurai
The traditional hakama has seven pleats: five in the front and two in the back. According to the tradition passed down in Japanese martial arts, each of these pleats represents a virtue of bushido, the moral code of the samurai. The five front pleats generally symbolize jin (benevolence), gi (righteousness), rei (respect), chi (wisdom), and shin (sincerity). The two back pleats represent chu (loyalty) and koh (filial piety).
This symbolism, whether historically prior or retroactively attributed to the garment by modern martial arts schools, is today taught as a daily reminder of the values that the practitioner must cultivate. Putting on one's hakama before training thus becomes a small centering ritual, a way to concretely remember, gesture by gesture, the principles one strives to embody on the tatami.
Umanori and Andon-bakama: the two types of hakama
There are two main families of hakama distinguished by their construction. The umanori, literally "on horseback," is divided into two separate legs like classic pants, originally designed to facilitate horseback riding. This is the most common form today, used in the majority of martial arts. The andon-bakama, on the other hand, resembles a long skirt without separation between the legs, offering a more fluid silhouette but less suited for wide movements.
This distinction between the two cuts is not just an aesthetic matter. The choice of one or the other directly depends on the intended use of the garment, and some martial arts schools have marked preferences based on the techniques they teach and the freedom of leg movement they require.
The hakama in Japanese martial arts
The hakama did not disappear with the end of the samurai era. On the contrary, it found a second life, perhaps even more enduring than the first, in the practice of Japanese martial arts codified from the late 19th century.
The hakama in aikido, kendo, and iaido
In aikido, the hakama is generally reserved for practitioners who have reached a certain level, thus marking a progression in learning and recognition of the practitioner's commitment. In kendo, the modern Japanese sword art, it is an integral part of the outfit from the earliest levels, worn with the keikogi and protected by the bogu armor during fights. In iaido, the art of drawing the sword, the hakama is essential from the beginning of practice, its ample pleats concealing the precise movements of the legs that are at the heart of this discipline.
This variation in the rules for wearing the hakama according to schools and disciplines speaks volumes about the diversity of Japanese martial arts, which share a common clothing heritage while each developing their own traditions and relationship to the symbolism of the garment.
How to properly wear and tie a hakama
Tying a hakama correctly requires practice and is part of the initial learning in any dojo that requires its wear. The garment is held in place by four ties, two at the front and two at the back, which wrap around the waist in a precise sequence before tying in the back. This tying technique, passed down orally and by demonstration from master to student, varies slightly between schools but always meets the same requirement: a secure hold that does not loosen during the intense physical effort of training.
Learning to properly fold one's hakama after each session is also considered an important part of the learning process in many traditional Japanese dojos. This gesture, repeated hundreds of times over years of practice, is itself seen as an exercise in discipline and respect for the equipment, consistent with the philosophy of bushido that the garment is meant to embody.
The hakama in Japanese culture and fashion today
Beyond the dojo, the hakama continues to hold a vibrant place in certain Japanese social traditions, and its distinctive aesthetic has also found an unexpected echo in contemporary fashion.
The ceremonial hakama for graduation ceremonies
One of the occasions where the hakama is still widely worn today in Japan is the university graduation ceremony. Many Japanese female students choose to wear a colorful kimono and hakama set for this occasion, perpetuating a tradition that dates back to the introduction of higher education for women during the Meiji era, when the first female students adapted the male dress codes of education to assert their place in institutions previously reserved for men.
This tradition of wearing hakama for graduation is now a strong cultural marker, photographed and celebrated, blending nostalgia for Japanese tradition with the affirmation of an important rite of passage in a young adult's life. Kimono and hakama rental shops for this occasion experience a peak in activity every spring, the traditional season for graduations in Japan.
The influence of the hakama on Japanese streetwear
In contemporary Japanese streetwear, the loose silhouette and pleated construction of the hakama have inspired several designers seeking a strong Japanese clothing identity without replicating the traditional garment exactly. Brands like Kapital or Visvim have offered wide pants and culottes directly influenced by the cut of the hakama, integrating this historical silhouette into decidedly contemporary pieces, made from technical materials or denim rather than traditional silk or cotton.
This reinterpretation of the hakama in current fashion illustrates a dynamic found in many other areas of Japanese culture: the ability to draw from an ancient clothing heritage without freezing it, allowing it to engage with entirely new uses and aesthetics.
Also, check out our article : Aizome : History and techniques of Japanese indigo dyeing
FAQ - Questions and answers about the hakama
What is the difference between a hakama and a kimono?
The kimono is a long robe worn as the main garment, fastened with an obi belt. The hakama is a wide pant or culotte worn over the kimono or over a practice jacket in the context of martial arts. The two garments traditionally combine, with the hakama complementing and structuring the outfit.
Why does the hakama have seven pleats?
According to the tradition passed down in Japanese martial arts, these seven pleats symbolize the virtues of bushido: benevolence, righteousness, respect, wisdom, sincerity, loyalty, and filial piety. This symbolism makes the hakama much more than just a functional garment, serving as a constant reminder of the moral values that the practitioner cultivates through their training.
Is a certain level required to wear the hakama in martial arts?
It depends on the discipline and the school. In aikido, the hakama is often reserved for practitioners who have reached an intermediate or advanced level, marking a progression step. In kendo and iaido, it is generally part of the outfit from the earliest levels of learning. Each dojo has its own rules regarding this.
Is the hakama only worn by men?
No, the hakama has a long history of being worn by women in Japan, from the imperial court of the Heian period to contemporary graduation outfits. In modern martial arts, both men and women generally wear the same hakama, without any particular distinction in cut.
Can a hakama be worn outside of a martial or ceremonial context?
Yes, although it is not a common practice in contemporary Japanese daily life. Some pieces inspired by the hakama, more accessible and less codified, exist in current Japanese fashion for those who wish to adopt this silhouette without wearing the traditional garment in its original context.
The hakama is one of those garments that proves that an everyday object can carry an entire philosophy within it, pleat by pleat. From the imperial court to dojos around the world, and onto the runways of contemporary Japanese fashion, it has traversed over a thousand years of history without ever losing what makes it recognizable: a loose silhouette that conceals as much as it reveals, and that continues to remind the wearer of the values they are meant to embody.
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