Sake : History, production, and culture of japanese rice wine

The history of sake: two thousand years of Japanese tradition

The origins of sake date back over two thousand years in Japan, although the first documented traces of its production appear in Chinese chronicles from the 3rd century that describe the Japanese as a people who drink and dance after funerals. The first Japanese sakes were likely fermented beverages made from chewed rice, whose salivary enzymes facilitated the conversion of starches into fermentable sugars. This primitive technique, called kuchikami no sake (sake of mouth chewing), is described in some ancient texts and is believed to have been practiced in Shinto religious ceremonies by virgin priestesses.

It is the introduction of koji, the microscopic fungus Aspergillus oryzae capable of converting rice starches into sugars without mastication, that revolutionizes sake production around the 8th century. This fundamental technical discovery allows for the production of sake in large quantities and with a consistency and quality far superior to previous methods. Japanese Buddhist monasteries play a crucial role in the development and dissemination of these new brewing techniques, becoming for several centuries the main producers and innovators in the world of Japanese sake.

Sake in Shinto religion: drink of the gods

Before being a drink of pleasure or conviviality, sake was first and foremost an offering to the gods. In Shinto religion, omiki (sacred sake) is one of the most important offerings presented to kami during ritual ceremonies. The large jars of sake seen placed in front of Shinto shrines are not decorations: they are real offerings, often sponsored by local breweries that thus perpetuate a millennia-old tradition of the relationship between sake and the divine.

The link between sake and Shinto is so deep that traditional Japanese breweries, called kura, almost all have a small Shinto shrine inside their premises, where the master brewers pray before the start of each new brewing season. The green cedar ball, called sugidama, hung at the entrance of kura and restaurants that serve fresh sake, is itself a Shinto symbol that signals the arrival of a new vintage and invites customers to come and discover it.

From the Edo period to today: the golden age of Japanese sake

It was during the Edo period that sake experienced its true golden age. The development of major Japanese cities, particularly Edo, Osaka, and Kyoto, created a considerable urban demand for quality beverages, and the breweries in the Nada region (in present-day Hyogo Prefecture) and Fushimi (in Kyoto) quickly established themselves as the country's reference producers. These two regions benefit from exceptionally high-quality water and easy access to maritime transport routes that allow them to supply the major cities throughout Japan.

It was also during the Edo period that the culture of sake tasting developed as we know it today, with its precise service codes, specific utensils, and rituals of conviviality. The izakaya of the Edo period are the direct ancestors of modern sake bars, and the service and tasting practices developed there three centuries ago continue to shape how the Japanese drink and share sake today.

The production of sake: an art in its own right

Understanding what sake really is involves understanding its production, which is one of the most complex and sophisticated of all fermented beverages in the world. Sake is neither wine in the strict sense (it is not made from grapes), nor beer (even though its production is similar in some aspects), nor a spirit (it is not distilled in its traditional form). It is a drink in a category of its own, whose production mobilizes techniques and know-how that have been perfected over centuries.

The raw material of sake is rice, but not just any rice. The varieties of rice used for producing quality sake, notably Yamada Nishiki considered the "king of sake rice," are specific varieties grown according to precise methods that maximize their starch content and minimize their protein and lipid content. These rices are then polished to remove the outer layers of the grain, a process called seimai whose degree largely determines the category and quality of the sake produced.

Koji and double fermentation: the secret of sake

The most fundamental secret of sake production is a unique process in the world called multiple parallel fermentation. In the production of most fermented beverages, the conversion of starches to sugars and the fermentation of those sugars into alcohol are two separate processes in time. In sake production, these two processes occur simultaneously in the same tank, giving the master brewer toji a level of control and aromatic complexity that is impossible to achieve by other methods.

The koji, this microscopic fungus we mentioned earlier, is at the heart of this unique process. The spores of koji are cultivated on a portion of cooked rice to produce kome-koji, an enzymatically active rice that will then be mixed with ordinary cooked rice, water, and yeast in the main fermentation tank. Managing this process, which lasts several weeks and requires constant attention and precision, is the expertise of the toji, the master brewer whose know-how is the most valuable asset of any quality brewery.

The major categories of sake to know

The diversity of sake is one of its most overlooked characteristics outside of Japan. A few fundamental distinctions help to navigate:

• Junmai: pure rice sake, produced only from rice, water, koji, and yeast, without the addition of distilled alcohol. Generally a more robust and umami style.
• Ginjo: a product made with rice polished to at least 40%, resulting in more fruity and delicate aromas. Excellent value for money.
• Daiginjo: polishing pushed to at least 50% of the grain removed, for the most aromatically complex and sought-after sakes.
• Honjozo: sake with a small addition of distilled alcohol that lightens the body and enhances the aromas. More accessible for beginners.

Sake in Japanese culture and daily life

Beyond its technical and historical dimension, sake is above all a social and cultural drink whose presence in Japanese life far exceeds the simple consumption of alcohol. It is the link between humans and gods, between the living and the dead, between friends and colleagues, between the past and the present of a civilization.

The kanpai ritual, this Japanese toast made before drinking, illustrates this social dimension of sake well. Unlike the simple "cheers" in the West, kanpai is a codified act that involves looking into the eyes of the person with whom you are toasting, holding your cup with both hands out of respect, and waiting for everyone to be served before drinking. These precise codes of conviviality related to sake reflect the values of respect and attentiveness to others that structure Japanese social relationships.

Sake in wedding ceremonies and Japanese rituals

Sake is present in almost all major ceremonies of Japanese life. In the traditional Shinto wedding, the san-san-kudo ritual (three times three sips) is one of the most solemn moments of the ceremony: the couple each drinks three times from three different-sized sake cups, sealing their union through this ritual sharing of a sacred drink. This ritual is one of the oldest in Japanese marriage and continues to be practiced in its traditional form even during the most modern ceremonies.

Sake is also present during construction ceremonies, where a bottle is buried under the foundations of a new house to protect its inhabitants, during boat launching ceremonies, during matsuri, and during New Year celebrations oshōgatsu, where toso, a medicinal herbal sake, is consumed with family at sunrise on January first to wish health and longevity to all household members.

Sake-producing regions and kura tourism

Japan currently has about 1,400 active breweries, spread across the entire territory but concentrated in a few historically producing regions. Nada, in Hyogo Prefecture, is the region that produces the largest volume of sake in Japan, with breweries that have several centuries of history. Fushimi, in Kyoto, is renowned for its sweet and elegant sakes, directly linked to the exceptional quality of its underground water. The Akita Prefecture in northern Japan, with its harsh winters that facilitate temperature control during fermentation, produces some of the finest and most aromatic sakes in the country.

Kura tourism, these visits to breweries that allow you to discover the manufacturing techniques and taste the productions directly at the source, is an increasingly popular practice in Japan and internationally. Some historic breweries offer immersive experiences that combine cellar tours, meetings with the toji, and guided tastings, providing a deep dive into a millennia-old craft that remarkably withstands modernization and globalization.

Sake in the world: an international recognition that continues to grow

Long confined to Japanese tables and Asian restaurants, sake has seen remarkable global diffusion over the past twenty years. Western sommeliers are increasingly taking it seriously, international competitions dedicated to it are multiplying, and prestigious European restaurants are gradually incorporating sake selections into their drink menus. This international recognition is not a matter of chance: it reflects a growing awareness that sake is a beverage of complexity and aromatic richness that deserves to be treated with the same seriousness as fine wines.

The rise of sake in France and Europe

France is today one of the most dynamic European markets for sake. Several specialized importers offer curated selections of quality sakes, and Paris now has dedicated sake bars where sommeliers trained in Japan guide customers in discovering this beverage. This progression aligns with the French culture of enjoying fine drinks and the attention paid to the origin and quality of beverages: the same qualities that make a great Burgundy or a grower Champagne appreciated naturally apply to a Junmai Daiginjo from a large brewery.

Food and sake pairings: beyond Japanese cuisine

One of the most persistent misconceptions about sake is that it only pairs with Japanese cuisine. This is false. The aromatic finesse of sake and its natural umami make it a remarkable companion for many cuisines around the world. Aged cheeses, particularly soft cheeses and blues, pair exceptionally well with robust Junmai sakes. Seafood and raw fish find in fruity and fresh Ginjo a pairing of elegance comparable to the best muscadets. White meats and poultry harmonize with lighter Honjozo. These unexpected pairings are one of the best ways to discover sake from a new perspective.

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FAQ - All your questions about Japanese sake

Is sake really a rice wine?

The term "rice wine" is a practical approximation but technically inaccurate. Sake is a fermented beverage made from rice, but its production method is closer to that of beer (cereal fermentation) than wine (fruit juice fermentation). The Japanese simply call it nihonshu (Japanese drink) or sake, without reference to wine. The term "rice wine" is a Western simplification that has the advantage of being understandable but the disadvantage of creating incorrect expectations about the taste and service of the beverage.

Should sake be drunk hot or cold?

It depends on the type of sake and the season. High-quality sakes, particularly Ginjo and Daiginjo, are best enjoyed chilled between 10 and 15 degrees to preserve their delicate aromas. Less refined sakes or more robust Junmai can be served hot in winter for a comforting effect. Hot service above 50 degrees, atsu-kan, is reserved for ordinary sakes where the heat masks imperfections. Generally, the higher the quality of the sake, the more it is enjoyed chilled.

What is the difference between sake and shochu?

Sake is a fermented drink with an alcohol content of around 15 to 16 degrees. Shochu is a distilled drink, comparable to a spirit, with an alcohol content generally between 25 and 35 degrees. Both are traditional Japanese beverages, but their production methods, tastes, and uses are very different. Shochu can be made from rice, barley, sweet potatoes, or other grains, while sake is always rice-based.

How to choose a good sake when starting out?

For a first approach, a Junmai Ginjo is an excellent entry point: its production without added alcohol makes it an authentic sake, and its rice polishing level gives it fruity and accessible aromas that generally appeal to unaccustomed palates. Sakes from the Fushimi region in Kyoto are often recommended for beginners because their sweet and round style is particularly approachable. Avoid sakes sold in Western supermarkets, as they are rarely representative of the actual quality and diversity of this drink.

Does sake keep for a long time?

Sake is more fragile than wine and does not keep as long once opened. An opened bottle should be stored in the refrigerator and ideally consumed within a week. Unopened sakes generally last six months to a year away from light and heat, with some exceptions for aged koshu sakes that can last several years. Unlike wine, sake generally does not improve with bottle aging, and recent vintages are almost always preferred over older ones.

Sake is much more than a drink; it is a cultural object in its own right, encapsulating two thousand years of Japanese history, artisanal know-how, and social rituals. Truly discovering it means uncovering a part of Japan that few travelers take the time to explore, and which often reveals more about this country than many temple visits. So, are you ready to drink from your sake glass and immerse yourself in Japanese culture?